So, I have to admit taking this photo of the Masai woman and her baby is a dream come true for me. I spent a lot of time as a little girl looking at National Geographic, and every so often I'd see a photo like this and wish that some day I'd see someone, in person, with that rich culture. I looked over my photos and saw this and was so giddy… I couldn't believe I'd just taken it.
The photo was taken two hours West of Arusha in a Masai village where the chief (big guy with the cowboy hat) has 12 wives. I was to greet him by bending down and letting him touch the top of my head while he said “habaree"? (how are you?), “N'zuree, asante sana” (good, thank you very much), “Karibu” (welcome).
After the greeting one of the chief's many sons took us up to where many women were slaughtering a cow while we watched. It was interesting to watch them essentially getting dinner ready, step one, kill the cow, step 2, butcher it with the family etc...
We walked on to see the inside of a Masai house, the one in the photo is for the volunteer to stay in, when they have one. It's a simple round structure made of sticks standing upright in a circular shape, plastered together with mud, manure and water. Masai don't have 'things' inside or even outside their houses just a bed made of sticks and fibers and a little stool for sitting and a couple of wraps for clothing.
This was NOT a museum where they teach about their culture, this is their village where they live. There was no explanation for anything, just a tour of their homes.
We walked down to an area with more huts and they brought out a piece of fire wood straight from the fire, broke it up and put the hot coals into a pan and pulled out a thin piece of wire metal in the shape of a circle - for a Masai tribal marking. Zackie, our guard at the house, is Masai and has one tribal circle on each cheek, two large ear piercings at the top of each ear and separated lower teeth (the woman in the photo with the baby has separated teeth too), this was all done when he was a 'kidogo ytoto' (little kid).
I decided to get one. Yes, it's a tribal marking for the Masai people and, no I'm not Masai, but I saw it as an honor to be invited to share in a tribal tradition in Africa where I may never be again, invited into their village by the chief... I'll remember this for the rest of my life, so I wasn't going to turn this opportunity down. I held out my arm to the chief's son and watched him burn a circle into my flesh. I was a little scared to watch myself be burned and to hold still while it was burning, but it didn't hurt! It was an amazing feeling being
surrounded by Masai while getting it done.
Right after being branded I walked away looking at it and a bunch of kids in the village saw me and ran up, I showed them my marking and a boy grabbed my hand right away and made a sound like 'ewwwhh' and started blowing on it, he must have known how it felt.
As he blew on my fresh wound I looked up and saw a boy about 7 years old, walking naked, stop, put his hands down to his penis, pee on them, stop peeing as if turning off a faucet to save water, wash his hands just as I do at the sink, put his hands back to pee on them again and wash his face... this all happened in a matter of seconds. Sorry, no photo!
I got stuck for a while taking photos and showing the kids their pictures and saw a kid walking with bloody ribs from the cow (photo). Behind him up the hill a group of Masai men were doing their dance , they sound so amazing together. I LOVED the sounds they were making!!
After the dance we went to the van to get our gifts... visitors are asked to bring gifts like school supplies for the kids, sugar, rice and cooking oil for everyone else as a thank you. Then we said goodbye and thank you to the chief the same way we said hello, and we were off.
I loved everything about this trip to the Masai village! It's so refreshing to meet people who live of, off and on the land and they’re happy people!
They do use some modern items; the son who took us around had a cell phone that sounded odd going off under his shawls. I'm not giving him crap for having a cell phone, it was just surprising. They only wear tire shoes, sandals made of old tires, another point for the Masai! Taking care of themselves and mother earth as much as possible!
Feel free to research Masai, Tanzania Africa. Many Masai have integrated themselves into the modern world, some fitting in so well, you wouldn't know they're Masai, and some continue to wear the Masai style of dress while living in the city.
Talia